When I looked out of my hotel window, sometimes I saw the tram. I also heard it quite often, lying awake in my bed at night, the Krymska street in front of the hotel silent except the occasional pleasant sound of the tram. I travelled a lot with the tram, it’s cheap and you get the whole of the city, the architecture and the people, just by sitting in one of these small carriages, observing what’s going on inside the train and behind its windows. I’ve never experienced any city of this scale where you feel so connected with the place just by using public transport.